Vintage Anelia
Natural Materials
Jewelry Materials from The Sea
Pearls - Mother of Pearl - Paua Shell - Coral
The Vintage Anelia collection has hundreds of pieces made Natural Materials!
The photo examples shown are all from our collection.
PEARLS
Genuine pearls can be natural or cultured, come from freshwater or saltwater, and from a variety of mollusks (not just oysters).
Natural pearls - comprised of naturally produced layer over layer of the mollusk's nacre
Cultured pearls - have a shell (mother-of-pearl) core, covered with a thin layer of nacre
Cultured Saltwater Pearls - farmed in salt water, and grown in oysters. They are rarer, and much more expensive than freshwater pearls.
Cultured Freshwater Pearls - farmed in freshwater (lakes & ponds), and tend to be much smaller than saltwater pearls.
Pearl color - though the difference if often subtle, pearls come in a wide variety of colors –pink, white, silver white, creamy white, gold, blue and black. Quality is graded by clearness of color.
Pearl shape - Round pearls are the most expensive, then near round, button (slightly flattened), Tear Drop, then Baroque (irregular) shape.
Pearl luster - high quality pearls have a high, almost mirror-like appearance. The number of pearl layers increases the deeper tone of the luster. High-luster pearls are shiny enough to reflect other objects. The higher the luster, the higher the value.
Pearl surface - the cleaner the better, but real pearls are not perfect, and have bumps, ridges, or pits in their nacre
Pearl size can symbol age, wealth and value. Traditionally pearls 7mm and larger for women, and smaller sizes are for girls.
5.5-6 mm - for girls ages 12 to 16 or very small women
6.0-6.5 mm - ages 16-24, perfect for graduations or 16th birthdays
6.5-7.0 mm – for women in mid 20s+. The traditional birthday, Christmas and Valentine's Day present.
7.5-8.0 mm - traditionally for women 30 and up, and a symbol of an upwardly mobile woman. The recommended size for a wedding, or 1st - 5th anniversary gift
8.0-8.5 mm - Worn by women 35+; signify success as they are more expensive
8.5-9.0 mm – Perfect for women ages 35 to 45, or larger women. Classy – this is the size Jacquie Kennedy wore.
9.09.5 mm - High-end pearls worn by women in their later years or dedicated pearl collectors.
Tips to identify real pearls:
-
They have a heavy weight
-
Real pearls are not perfect - run a real pearl across your teeth, and it feels grainy. You can also rub two pearls together.
-
Real pearls may have concentric ridged circles around them
-
Examine the drill holes – those of real pearls tend to be as small as possible (as the weight of a pearl affects its price), and likely to be flat, not sunken in or bulging up. The nacre will be smooth with the hole, though it may be chipped from age on vintage pearls
-
Fake or simulated pearls look flatter (less shiny) and with age their top coating tends to flake off
-
Real pearl necklaces & bracelets are more likely to have knots between each pearl
-
Real pearls usually have settings of gold, silver, or platinum. The clasps tend to have safety mechanisms, like fish hooks, or another secure clasp.
CARE - Store and handle pearls carefully, keeping away from chemicals, though pearls love body heat and oils.
Clean only using a mild (Ivory) soap, rinsing it off with clean warm water. Use a soft cloth to polish the pearl and air dry it on a soft towel. Very dirty peals can be cleaned with acetone nail polish remover applied to a soft cloth.
For more detailed information, we recommend The Pearl Guide at: http://www.pearl-guide.com
SHELLS
An enormous variety of seashells are used in jewelry – plain or painted, rough or polished. Some specific shells are used to create some lovely specialty pieces. These are used in quality vintage jewelry:
CARNELIAN CONCH SHELL –a low-intensity peach or orange color. Most often used in cameo carvings
SARDONYX SHELL - a dark brown interior color and a thick outer light/white wall; and when carved it can resemble marble. Create starker contrasting and more expensive cameos.
MOTHER OF PEARL – basically the inner shell layer of an oyster or other mollusk – it’s the coating the animal created to protect themselves from foreign objects. It is the same material that forms the outer coating of a pearl.) It is strong, resilient, and iridescent. (Also called “nacre”)
Some Mother of Pearl beads have parts of the white portion of the shell attached.
PAUA SHELL - the most colorful of the abalone shell, and only found around New Zealand. Its color varies from greens & pinks to purples & blues and some with a gold or crimson tone, and changes when viewed at different angles. It is iridescent, similar to that of Mother of Pearl shell, but far more brilliant, and blue.
CAMEOS
The word cameo is used to describe a relief image raised higher than its background and carved from one material. Fine quality cameos are usually made from Carnelian, Sardonyx or Mother of Pearl shells.
Cameos are wonderful, miniature art sculptures. The value of a cameo depends on its materials, design and condition. Better cameos are set in gold or silver and feature more detailed carving.
The most popular subject is the face of an ancient, Renaissance or Victorian woman; scenes using multiple, full-fires are said to be the most expensive.
The reverse of a cameo, when an image is carved out of a material, creating a recessed image, is not called a cameo, but an "intaglio." These can also be made of shells, but stone, glass, and plastic intaglios are seen more often.
CORAL
Though coral can often resemble a plant, it is actually a living creature, a marine invertebrate that attach to the ocean floor and each other. Coral is itself translucent, getting its color from the organisms and environment around it. Jewelry is made from the skeleton of coral.
The colors of coral most often used in jewelry range from black to a distinctive pink, orange, and a deep red, the latter being the most expensive. Coral can be made into various shapes for beads, carvings, and in its more natural branch-like form.
The more natural coral is more expensive, but it is commonly treated an enhanced to improve its durability and highlight its color and glass-like shine. Corals are often impregnated with resins, epoxies or wax to fill the surface flaws. The best red coral jewelry is thought to come from Japan and Italy.
Reconstituted Coral - is real coral, but made from fragments pulverized, treated with binding agents, then pressed and cut
Bamboo Coral – a different species of coral, or Sea Bamboo and not as valued as real coral.
Coral tends to become warm when it is worn, and such has led to beliefs it aids blood circulation, promote healthy bones, growth and positive energy. It is said to strengthen love, and is a symbol of joy and happiness.
Good quality coral has:
-
Even color
-
No fissures or spots
-
No seams
CARE – Coral can seem hard like a stone, but being organic, it is a bit soft and porous – it scratches easily and it very sensitive to chemicals and extreme temperatures. It should be stored separately to prevent chips or scratching. Put on your coral jewelry AFTER putting on your make-up and perfume, and remove coral rings before washing your hands
To clean coral just gently wipe it with a moist soft/flannel cloth – Never use soap, chemicals or a sonic cleaner.
Browse our Information Pages:
Vintage Costume Jewelry hallmarks
Vintage jewelry types & terms
Check out the full Vintage Anelia costume jewelry collection at ArtFire.com