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Vintage Costume Jewelry  DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS

HALLMARKS

Many noted jewelry manufactures added an identifying mark to their pieces - some used their name, others just symbols. These marks can tell you the designer, as well as help  identify the materials used and the age of the piece. Below is a list of some of the hallmarks you can find on costume jewelry in the Vintage Anelia collection, along with a brief description and some photo examples.

These descriptions are a brief synopsis. All pieces are/were part of the Vintage Anelia collection, and all photos are the property of Vintage Anelia and cannot be copied without permission.

Accessocraft Products Co.   NYC – 1930 to 1998

 

AMCO (A. Micallef & Co. Inc.)  - produced very high quality costume jewelry in silver and gold filled and gold plated. They started in Providence RI in 1919, and ceased operations in the late 1970s. Their pieces were and still are some of the more expensive of their type. Photo 

 

Anne Klein  - began about 1968, producing gold plated or brush gold-tone metal base costume jewelry with colored Lucite stones, simulated pearls, sapphires, and turquoise stones and rhinestones. After her death in 1974, her jewelry was designed by Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio.  Pieces after 1981 were manufactured by Swank, Inc. using the Anne Klein lion logo.

 

ARIAS - Miguel Arias was a noted silversmith from Taxco, Mexico. His enamel work is thought to be some of the best.

 

AVON - started in the early 1960s, and still operational today. Originally sold direct to the public through door to door and catalogue sales. It was very popular because of its affordability and attractive designs. 

 

BSK - (named for the 3 owners: Steinberg, Slovitt & Kashe) created high quality costume jewelry in New York from 1948 to the mid 1980s. Photo  

 

Ballou - Founded by Barton Ballou about 1940 in East Providence, Rhode Island, creating premium, highly crafted, precious metal jewelry for men, women and children.

 

Bergere – Founded by  Jack Pohs in 1940 as Herbert & Pohs, Incorporated in Providence, RI. They used the mark Berjac in 1940, then Berge in 1946. They closed in 1979.  

 

Capri - CAPRI JEWELRY, INC., NYC, 1952—1977. A noted costume jeweler.

 

Carl-Art Inc - used a mark with an arrow (>>=CA=>) Based in Providence, R.I. and best known for making 12k GF jewelry in the 1930s - 50s. Designer Carl Schraysshuen’s patented flower designs frequently in their jewelry. Photo 

 

Charel - Began 1945 in Brooklyn, NY. Best known for Art Moderne Lucite thermoset jewelry in the 1950's. 

 

Clark & Coombs - began in North Attleboro, MA, by William Clark, JR. & Mr. Coombs, moving to Providence, RI in 1872.  Closed in 1988.

 

CORO - founded by Emanuel Cohn & Carl Rosenberger in 1901. Their factory was built in Providence, RI in 1911. They starting using the corporate name "Coro" in 1943, and closed in 1979. Coro was the largest of all costume jewelry manufactures, and marked the jewelry in many different names including CoroCraft, Vendome, and a Pegasus mark was used after WWII. Photo 

 

Danecraft - founded in 1934 in RI by Victor Primavera and James Felch. Known for quality silver jewelry.  The designs are often dimensional and intricate depictions of nature's beauty, with an Art Nouveau influence. These pieces are highly collectible. (photo above)

 

DeMario – Robert DeMario’s company operated in NYC 1945-65. Known for superior craftsmanship, bold designs, and detailed and ornate clasps. DeMario jewelry is very collectable with high prices.

 

EMMONS - Emmons Jewelers, Inc., Newark, NY 1949-1981. (Also used mark EMMOLITE)

 

ESEMCO – Mark for Shiman Jewelers - see listing below

 

EVERFINE JEWELRY MFG. – Based in Providence, RI . Began in the 1940s, making “sweetheart” bracelets during WWII, also made watch bands and silver pieces. 

 

FORSTNER CHAIN CORP. - Irvington, NJ -- c. 1920 -- c. 1980. Many of its styles were produced in Gold Filled and Sterling. They are not easily found.  Forstner 12K Gold Filled Leaf Necklace  Photo

 

From, Niels Erik – Mark - N.E.From. 1931 to 1986 in Nakskov, Denmark.  Famous for their sterling silver pieces. There are a number of signatures used including FROM and many pieces with N.E.From in an italic script.

 

Germany – West Germany"Germany" indicates the piece was made before World War II. Afterward "western Zone Germany or  American Zone Germany” were used. Then "West Germany" or "German Democratic Republic" (East Germany)  after 1946 or '47, when Germany was split.

 

HAR - Hargo Creations of NY, 1955 to about 1968. In 1960 made a group of Chinese face and body pins that are highly collectible.  Photo

 

Hattie Carnegie - started to make costume jewelry to complement her clothing line about 1918. Her jewelry is usually marked "Hattie Carnegie" or "Carnegie". A less frequently used mark is "HC" within a diamond, inside a semi-oval.

 

HOB - H.O.B. Jewelry Co. located in New York. 1965 to present 

 

Hollycraft - Hollywood Jewelry Mfg Company founded in 1938 by Joseph Chorbajian in New York City. The Hollycraft mark was used 1948 to 1971. Pieces made during the 1950's were often dated.

Beautiful combinations of pastel stones were their signature colors.  Photo

 

IPS - Imperial Pearl founded by Joseph Gladstone in 1917. Other marks are MARSLIEU,  Marslieu Sterling.  Became Imperial Pearl Syndicate in 1941 sold several times then in 1995 merged with Pearls by Deltah, Inc. to become Imperial-Deltah, Inc., today one of world's leading pearl companies

 

Jomaz – (also see Mazer Bros.). Mark used from 1946 – 1981. High quality pieces often exhibited impeccable metalwork and brilliant stones, yet sold for reasonable prices

 

Kramer – Kramer Jewelry Creations. Based in NYC 1943-1980. Used block letter mark in 1940’s. Used unique and rare specialty stones and beads. Known in the 1950s for the “Golden Look” using gold plate, and in the 1960s for the “Diamond Look” using silver plating.

 

Krementz - one of the best makers of high quality 10K & 14K costume jewelry, using a unique process that made their pieces look like solid gold. Most famous for line of golden rose motif jewelry. The company started in 1884, but started making women’s jewelry in the 1930s. (Anelia had a sister and sister-in-law that worked for the NJ company in the 1950s-60s.)  Photo 

 

LISNER -- D. Lisner & Co, of NY , 1904 to approx. 1985. Manufactured a broad range of jewelry from high quality, in the 1950s, using more expensive and superior aurora borealis stones and rhinestones, to medium priced and the lower priced range similar to Coro jewelry.  They changed their hallmark, which can help in dating pieces: "Lisner" in block letters started in 1938, with a copyright mark starting in 1955. "Lisner" with the "L" elongated and the "isner" in small print and "Lisner" in script in an oval logo, were used starting in 1959. Photo 

 

Lucoral & Lupearl Corporation  - 1963 established in Taiwan. Renowned for using precious corals, fine cultured pearls and natural gemstones.

 

M. & S. MFG. CO., Inc. - Providence, RI -- c 1950. Mainly used  12K GF

 

McCLELLAND BARCLAY -  1935 - 1943. McClelland Barclay was a jewelry designer, and a well-respected painter and an illustrator. He designed bronzes and art objects, decorative arts and dishes. During the 1920s - 1930s he became world famous for his Art Deco jewelry.  He died in In 1943 on a ship during WWII. His fine creations and jewelry are rare and highly collectible. Photo 

 

Marino Mfg., Co -- Providence, RI- c. 1957 -- 1983

 

Marvella - founded by Weinrich Bros. Co. 1911 in Philadelphia. Jewelry was primarily gold plated metal topped with enamel, simulated pearls, and brilliant faceted crystal beads with rhinestones. The beads, called aurora borealis, were of the highest quality with spectacular changing colors. Used variations of the name, which help to date the pieces: "Marvella" alone in script since Jan. 1911. In 1938 added a copyright sumbol. Since 1958 used other variations including Maturelle , Marvellette, Freshura & Marvellescence. Were purchased by the Monet Group in 1981, by Crystal Brands Jewelry Group in 1988, is now owned by Liz Clairborne.  Photo

 

MAZER / MAZER BROS. - 1923-1981 in New York founded by Joseph Mazer and his brother Louis.

The mark Joseph Mazer  was used 1926-1951. In 1946 Joseph Mazer left to form Joseph J. Mazer and Co., better known as JOMAZ (see above). Pieces exhibit impeccable metalwork and brilliant stones, and regarded as very high quality for reasonable prices.  Photo

 

METZKE - founded in 1963 in Tallahassee, Florida by Dr. Fred W. Metzke and his wife Mary, grew to one of the largest pewter giftware manufacturers in the world. They  closed doors in 1997.

 

Milor  - (Silver & Gold) Founded in Milan 1979, a large Italian jewelry company who designs and sells high quality gold and silver jewelry and watches. They are a respected family-owned business.

 

MIMI di N - Mimi di Niscemi - circa 1950's to 1990's, Sicilian born & studied in Paris and Philadelphia

 

Miriam Haskell - hugely popular and highly collectible. Started in 1926 but did not use a permanent hallmark until 1947/8 to protect the Haskell name from cheaper competition that imitated her style.

The first signature was a semicircular plaque (horseshoe) that was attached to the back of the piece. In early 1950's to late 1970s the tag was an flat oval shape with 'MIRIAM HASKELL' stamped on to it, which came through to the other side, indented and reversed. In 1975 they used a slide clasp, a flat oblong shape with the patent number 3,427,691 on one side and the Haskell signature in block capitals on the other.  1979 to present they use a flat back oval tag.  Photo 

 

Monet - first introduced by the Chernow Brothers of Rhode Island in the late 1920’s. It became  one of the best makers of costume and fashion jewelry. On some rare oversized pieces they added an "L" to signify a large size.  Photo

 

NAPIER - The Napier-Bliss Co., founded by Whitney & as the Bliss Co in 1875, moved to Meridian, CT in 1890, and became Napier in 1922. Closed in Oct.1999. Their popularity was highest in the 1950s-60s, offering a wide variety of styles, featuring faux pearls and beading, large gold or silver toned chains, colorful enamel pieces, milk glass beads or art glass charms. They are known for their chunky bracelets, oversized broaches, and large, button style earrings. Napier also produced a line of sterling silver pieces. Various marks were used, some able to help date the piece: Napier inside a cartouche began in 1920, Napier in block print began in 1922, In a shield-shape in 1942, Napier Quality in a circle in 1946, With copyright after 1955. In script without the copyright symbol in the early 1990's, and  Napier © on the top of a pin stem started in 1993. Napier marketed 14K gold jewelry on a limited scale in the 1960's - 1970's, but all 14K jewelry was manufactured by an outside source.  Photo

 

Panetta – 1945 - 1995, started by Beneditto Panetta, originally a platinum jeweler from Naples, Italy. A very respected, high quality costume jeweler who started his company with his sons in NYC just after WWII. The jewelry was always on the expensive side, and strove for high quality and craftsmanship. The company was sold in the late '80s to one of their best customers in Japan and closed in 1995.Today the pieces are very hard to find.

 

PARK LANE – 1955 to present. Jewels by Park Lane 

 

Phyllis Originals, Inc. – (see M. & S. Mfg.). in business only during 1940s to 1950s. Jewelry signed Phyllis is hard to find and the designs are always very exquisite. Most pieces are 12kt GF.  Photo

 

Roman - Out of St Louis, started in 1973 and still operating.

 

Reja Inc. – founded by Solomon Finkelstein in NYC in 1939 as ‘Deja Costume Jewelry, Inc.’ changing to Reja in 1941. They closed in 1953. Reja jewelry is very high quality. The the company released a number of collections, including the Africana and the Gardenesque series, that included figurals of enamel on sterling silver, offset by colorful rhinestones, moonstones and pave clears. There was also an entire series of enamel fruits, nuts and vegetables, and a number of pieces with pale blue or rose pink moonstone cabs.  Photo

 

Sarah Coventry - founded by Charles Stuart in Newark, NY. It was only sold at home parties---mostly in the 50's and is now collectible and getting scarce. They ceased operations in 1984.

Their hallmarks include: "Coventry" and "Sarah Coventry" started in 1949, "SC" in 1950, "Sarah" in 1951, "Sarah Cov" in 1953.  Photo

 

SHIMAN MFG. CO. INC. – 1906 to 1988. Used the mark ESEMCO on a small rectangle cartouche until the 1970s.

 

SWAROVSKI – Austria, 1895 to the present. Daniel Swarovski invented a machine to industrially cut crystal stones in 1892, then with his brother-in-law Franz Weis and Armand Kosmann, founded Swarovski America, Ltd. in 1895. They began making their own line of jewelry in 1977. The first logo used was a edelweiss flower, as as it was unrecognizable to USA consumers, it was changed to S.A.L. until 1988, when it was replaced with the swan logo. Since Jan. 2006, the company sells jewelry through its own retail stores, not department stores.  Photo

 

Trifari - Founded in 1910, by Gustavo Trifari (from Italy) in NYC. Trifari was considered one of the largest and best known producers of costume jewelry.They produced of a broad range of costume jewelry with superb designs and workmanship at different price levels. Trifari jewelry had a distinctive fine jewelry look, using high quality imported Swarovski rhinestones hand-set in the jewelry piece. The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930s and 1940s are rare. Their variety of marks included:  "TFK" in 1917, Trifari with a crown above the T in the 1930s, and then Trifari with a crown and copyright symbol dates to the 1940s and is in high demand by collectors. Trifari started using the dangle T logo in 1954. Trifari was purchased by Hallmark in the late 1970s.  Photo 

 

UNCAS MANUFACTURING CO. -1911 to the present. Founded in Providence, RI in 1911 by Vincent Sorrentino in under his own name, and became UNCAS Manufacturing Co. by 1922. The UNCAS company absorbed other brands including Curtman in 1950 and Vargas in the 1980s. Their mark is a U with an arrow through it. They are credited with creating the  H.G.E. (heavy gold electroplate) process in 1965, and marked that on most of their pieces.

 

VARGAS - began in Providence, RI in 1945, specializing in ornamental costume jewelry with colored rhinestones, faux pearls and simulated colored glass gem stones on sterling silver, 10k gold filled, gold plated and silver plated base metals. Being pretty, colorful, durable and affordable they were quite popular. Their mark is a V in an elongated diamond shape, also using "VARGAS", and "Cradle Craft" on children’s jewelry. The company ceased operations in 1980, then was bought by UNCAS Manufacturing.  Photo

 

WEH - Walter E. Hayward, Co. started in Attleboro, Massachusetts before 1904, then moved to East Providence, Rhode Island. (Operated as Hayward and Sweet Company, “H*S” from about 1887 to 1904.)

 

WL - Walter Lampl Co. started in NYC in 1921. Noted for well designed pieces using semi-precious stones. Designer only - used outside manufacturers. Called themselves "Creators of the Unusual, as Usual." Walter Lampl died in 1945, company closed in 1959. Also used "Lampl" mark. 

 

WINARD - Winard Jewelry made fine gold-filled jewelry in the 1940s and 1950s. They were sold in fine jewelry stores in the 1940s & 50s. They were a USA company known for their high quality gold and ivory, jade and coral jewelry pieces.  Photo 

Browse our Information Pages:

Vintage Costume Jewelry hallmarks

 

 

 

Vintage jewelry types & terms

Materials used in Vintage Jewelry

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