Setting & Design Glossary

SETTING & DESIGN GLOSSARY

Jewelry has its own glossary of terms and descriptions.

Below are some basic definitions of the terms commonly used to describe the appearance and construction of

Vintage Jewelry pieces.

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BEAD & STONE TYPES
BEAD & STONE SETTINGS
BRACELET TYPES
CHAINS
CLASPS
EARRING TYPES
JEWELRY PERIODS / AGE IDENTIFIERS
NECKLACE TYPES & SIZES
BIRTHSTONES

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Popular vintage Costume Jewelry makers

The most common materials used in vintage jewelry, including Metals (Gold, Silver, etc.), Gems & Stones, Natural Materials, and Man-Made Materials

Designer & Manufacturer Marks

Jewelry Materials

BEAD & STONE SHAPES & TYPES

AURORA BOREALIS – Rhinestones treated to produce iridescent effects. Process invented in 1955 by the Swarovski Company
BAGUETTE – narrow, rectangular cut rhinestone
BAROQUE – irregularly shaped pearl or bead, also called nugget-shaped
BARREL - short, thick tube bead with slightly rounded edges; also a type of clasp
BI-CONE - shape resembling two cones with their widest ends together
BRANCH - a narrow, irregular shape that twists and curves like a tree branch; most commonly seen in coral necklaces
CATHEDRAL - has facets cut around the middle of the bead
CUBE - square beads, can also be a diagonal or diamond cube
CYLINDRICAL – drill hole runs the long way; bead much longer than wide; also called Tube beads
FLUTED: a surface effect of lengthwise ridges on a bead. This is also known as a corrugated surface.

LAMPWORK– colorful, translucent bead that can be any shape, size, or color, but defined by the creation process. Originally from Italy, it is a labor-intensive heating technique used to make glass beads. They have been called little glass globes of art.

NUGGET – see Baroque
PINCHED OVAL - oval shape but with a flat or angular depression on two or more sides
RONDEL (or Rondelle) - wider than they are long, and flatter, like a disk; usually used as small spacer beads
SEED - tiny, uniformly shaped bead, using round with a large drill hole
TUBE – see Cylindrical
WEDDING CAKE - Made famous in Venice, a type of Lampwork bead that looks like a little cake with an “icing” of swirls, dots, flowers, etc. often has metallic bits to add to the sparkle

BEAD & STONE SETTINGS

BEZEL – setting that encircles entire stone with flanges, folded over the edge; also refers to the part of a cut stone that protrudes above the setting (also called a crown)

CABOCHON - a gemstone shaped and polished (as opposed to faceted) that usually forms a convex dome above the setting. They are usually highly polished, with a flat bottom, and in an oval shape

PRONG – narrow short strips of metal folded over the stone to hold it in place. Open prong setting are often used to reveal the beauty of gemstones.

BRACELET TYPES

BANGLE – rigid & circular that slips over the hand

CHARM – links with suspended charms

CUFF – stiff oval or round with hinge & clasp; a Gauntlet or Indian Cuff has an open back

FLEXIBLE – made of metal or mesh often with rhinestones or pearls

SPIRAL – long span of rhinestones, metal, beads, or pearls that wraps around wrist or upper arm

CHAINS

The best definition for chain is they are called what they look like: Box, Herringbone, Mesh (or woven), Rope & Snake.

Photos give the best description.

CLASPS

BARREL CLASP - barrel-shaped that screws apart
BOX CLASP (slide clasp) – a collapsible open-ended fold of metal that slides into a box when pressed closed; often with a filigree or etched design
HINGE CLASP (Type “C”) - formed in the shape of a “C” to hold the clasp pin. Primarily used before 1900, a sign a piece may be more than 100 years (technically an antique)
HOOK – open oval that feeds through a ring.
FISH HOOK –smaller, flat hook that feeds through a flat over casing, often with a filigree or etched design
S HOOK - looks like an “S” to hook both ends
MAGNETIC CLASP – uses magnets to secure the necklace ends
ROLLOVER CLASPS (Safety Clasp) - popular since 1910, like a C Clasp but a metal piece covers the opening; also called a latch, or locking C clasp
SPRING RING and LOBSTER CLAW – Rollover Clasps with a tiny lever spring release
TOGGLE CLASP (bar & ring clasp) – has a long bar that fits into a wide ring then turns to lock in place

EARRING TYPES

CHANDELIER – Drop earring with several lengths/levels
CLIP-ON – hinged back that snaps onto the ear lobe, first appeared in the 1960s
DROP - dangle from the ear and vary in length from an inch or longer
HOOK - earring with fish hooked metal rod that inserts through the ear lobe and hangs on backside
HOOP- round or oval and can vary in size
LATCH BACK – metal post slides through the ear then catches or snaps on the back of the earring (often seen on hoop earrings)
POST – earring with a straight metal rod that inserts through the ear lobe
POST BACK – what keeps post earrings secure; can push or screw on
SCREW ON (Screw Back) – post with flat end that screwed to secure onto the ear lobe, used thru the 1950s
STUD – small & simple, a gem, bead or pearl attached to a post

JEWELRY PERIODS / AGE IDENTIFIERS

This is just a rough guideline as there are plenty of overlaps!

1890 to 1915 - VICTORIAN EDWARDIAN

1895 to1915 - ART NOUVEAU

Featured designs inspired by nature and free-flowing lines – likened to woman’s hair, feminine curves and anything that moved. Gold and silver were used, with soft glimmering gems such as opal and moonstone. Sculpted horn, bone and ivory were also popular.

1920 to 1930S - ART DECO
From the industrial age, jewelry art imitated machinery incorporating geometric shapes, parallel lines, and symmetrical patterns with sharp angles. Bold, abstract, and lavish patterns in vivid contracting colors, and also monochromatic (silver & Platinum). A plethora of plastics (including Bakelite) were used, as well as bone, wood, amber and other natural materials.
There were rings with big stones, large brooches, voluminous ear clips, wide bracelets, and very long necklaces. Lacquer techniques from the Far East appeared. A new ‘invisible’ setting that hid the metal setting, and only the gems were visible.
1940 to 1950s - ART MODERNE & RETRO

Retro Victorian designs, “Sweetheart” jewelry with military symbols, Japan jewelry, Lucite inserts

1950s – Costume Jewelry at its peak! Multi-strand beaded necklaces, larger sized beads, button earrings, Lucite – especially thermoset inserts, Confetti & embedded Lucite, Diamante rhinestone (faux diamond) necklaces & earrings, white jewelry

1960s – Camelot Classical (think Jacquie Kennedy) in the early 60's, then Modernist, Hippie, Psychedelic & Avant Garde

1970s – Hippie, Psychedelic & Disco

VINTAGE AGE TIPS:

NECKLACES

Bead necklaces with box or hook fasteners, with knots on the strings holding the fastener to the necklace.
Extension beads/chain to lengthen/shorten the necklace.
Rhinestone & colored glass necklaces with hook and eye clasps

EARRINGS